By Greg
Craig Thompson, the owner of Shandaken Bake, has created an enchanting realm of cookies, cakes, pies and pastries in the Catskills.
Whenever an uninitiated guest comes to stay, I ensure the weekend’s itinerary includes whisking them away into the mountains and queuing up at Shandaken. The 40-plus minute drive to Tannersville and standing in the inevitable line out the door are part of the experience. Craig is going to make you wait for it.
Entering Craig’s shop feels as if you’ve stumbled into the pages of a story-book. The golden tones of the woody interior evoke a sun-drenched clearing in the middle of a forest glen. Handmade craft paper flowers sprinkle the tables, while larger painted cardboard pieces, like cardinals and birch trees, festoon the windows. Little doodles and illustrations (by Craig himself) dot the tiny placards describing each treat. Like old-world proclamations, handwritten notes on parchment paper announce upcoming events on the walls. While in line, you're allowed a just-out-of-reach view of a stunning bake case styled to make your mouth water. Sugar-dusted confections, suitable for a fairytale princess, glisten in the morning sun. Once you’ve made it through the line, cozy nooks invite you to post with a cup of coffee.
The line also appears to have its own governing forces. Be prepared. You will be chatting with a stranger. In this charmed environment, the woman before you is suddenly your best friend, and you must help each other weigh your options. You had Craig’s signature Chubby Squirrel (a coffee-cakesque turnover exploding with apples glazed with vanilla and molasses) the last time you were here, so is this the moment for a slice of ginger root cake? Is it finally time to buckle for a blueberry buckle or cave for yet another piece of chocolate banana bread? Your new best friend is deliberating what to get for her daughter’s birthday dessert, the key lime pie with graham cracker crust or the maple chocolate bourbon cake. Both are decorated so beautifully; one toppled high with meringue clouds and zest the color of lightning, the other garnished fresh berries and a cookie in the shape of a songbird. An impossible decision.
After watching her happily sail off with the key lime pie (who was she kidding), it’s time to meet your baker. Craig himself stands behind the counter; the cashier, the runner, and the barista. His sparkling, peridot-green eyes greet you (and every other guest) with the familiarity of an old friend. He’ll most likely be wearing a beanie that is perched so high on his head that it appears to be levitating. He’ll also be wrapped in an ever-so-slightly steampunk apron that reads as much eccentric inventor as it does rustic baker. Once you’ve made your selection, he’ll look at you playfully, with one hand poised in the air wielding a sheet of wax paper, and like a riddle posed by Rumpelstiltskin ask, “Are you sure that’s it?” No. You’re not sure, and instead of walking away with the single pastry you’ve spent the last ten minutes lusting after, you’re now getting one of everything. You watch with glee as Craig thoughtfully wraps up your treasure trove of treats in a brown box tied with string, a package befitting Mr. Tumnus.
My most recent visit was initiated by a plea from my friend and fellow Shandaken devotee Justin, visiting for the weekend and in dire need of Craig’s signature sweet cream and buttermilk biscuits. In line, I prayed that my favorite, the blackberry cream scone with maple schmear would be available. You never know what’s going to be in the case. The offerings are at Craig’s whim. Between customers, I was able to spot one last scone sitting pretty, but the fifteen customers ahead of me did nothing to quell my worries. I needed that scone. The usual line neighbor chit-chat was upended by a millennial couple who had busted in with an adorable wriggling puppy. They paraded their tiny beast around, making a big show of his first public outing. All eyes were on the snow-furred good boy as he waited on command for a cookie, drool spilling out of his mouth in thick ribbons.
When it was their turn, I felt my heart sink as they ripped through the display, bagging up one or two of each goodie. Craig, gestured toward the scone. I felt panic. They were about to swipe the crown jewel. I wanted it even more. I briefly considered unleashing the puppy to create a distraction. The customer rested her hand on her chin and let out a long “Hmmmm. “I don’t know if I’m in the mood for blackberries today, are you, babe?” Her partner shook his head, “Nah, all good!” Another rush of drool—this time from me. For being a patient good boy, I'd be rewarded with my treat.
“Ah, it’s you two!” Craig smiled, greeting us. Justin told him that his biscuit boy was back for more, to which Craig replied, “You’ll be seeing that on a t-shirt.” He then spent a couple minutes with us, giving us recs on his favorite hiking trails. The queue is mostly in place because Craig takes time with each customer, like a generous celebrity at a meet and greet. With a tug on his beanie and that puckish glint in his eye, he asked, “Now, what’ll it be today?”
I had planned on saving the scone for breakfast the following day, but once in hand, I dug into it so eagerly that I surprised myself. The blackberries went off like little fireworks inside the craggy dough. The maple glaze tied the flavors together, casting a spell with every bite.
Craig’s baking isn’t just food—it’s an enchantment. One morsel, and you’re bound to return. Whenever you find yourself back in the mountains, they’ll seem to whisper, “Shandaken.” The memory of the bakery’s warm glow will beckon, and you’ll find yourself transported into Craig’s world, where morning sweets become happily ever afternoons.
Name drops: Shandaken Bake
A very special thank you to this week’s illustrator, Amelia Meyer1. See more of her work here.
Amelia Meyer is an illustrator and designer currently living in Pasadena, CA. She studied Illustration: Entertainment Design at ArtCenter College of Design. In her work, she strives to create thoughtful designs infused with a playful sense of fun and humor.
Her portfolio includes visual development for animation, editorial illustration, event sketching, and commissioned work. She loves reading and storytelling of all kinds and is currently developing her own children's books.
When she is not in the studio, she loves to catch a baseball game, host elaborate theme parties, or putter around a flea market, all the while observing and sketching the lovely, quirky people around her.